A Big Bore

Today we went to the small town of Saint Pardon on the Dordogne River. There is a tidal bore that comes up the river at high tide. As the tide comes in at the ocean (about 80km downstream), there is a funnelling effect. By Saint Pardon, there is a big wave that comes crashing in, followed by a bunch of others. Today it was about 85cm; sometimes it's higher. It moves at 12km/hour. Before the bore arrived, the water was completely calm.

What do you do with such a thing? Surf it. Or use a kayak. About 15 tried today. The success rate was low.

Combining the picture with the words, I think it is forbidden to be 

one-legged unless you're surfing

This guy paddled from where we were down to the curve in
the river, where the others were waiting.

Here they come. Only three made it as far as us.

Looking cool as can be.

There they go.